Harajuku 2023
Harajuku is famous for Takeshita Street, the capital of teenage fashion. It is a perfect spot to watch teenagers do what teenagers do, except one has to keep moving with the crowd, and generally, you are swept up to go one direction and end up on Meiji-Dori (Avenue). The scent of sweets is strong here, with plenty of candy stores and sweet crepes being made and sold, but even with that, I feel like I gained pounds just by absorbing the cinematic sweetness produced here. A high takes place, but I'm not sure if it’s a good one to experience. On the other hand, on a spiritual level, I love it. But this is not the real Harajuku, only a visual interpretation. The real deal is in the alleyways and side streets, which houses many boutiques, beauty shops, expensive tennis shoes, and small cafes. There is a strong here today, but it will be gone tomorrow—one of the reasons why I love Tokyo. I can be nostalgic about a store that only lasted in the blink of an eye. And I’m not sure, but there are new buildings here, but I can’t recall what was there in the first place. There are always changes, yet Takeshita Street remains the same. Surface beautiful teenage trash.
My no-drinking, no-meat-eating rule was destroyed on this trip. Ten years of no meats (except fish) and one year sober, whatever that means, was tossed away easily here. I developed this hunger for packaged ham and lettuce sandwiches on white bread that one can purchase at various Doutor coffee shops. Due to the strong dollar against the weak yen, you can have this snack and a great cup of coffee for around $3, but one would have to be insane not to go to a more grown-up coffee shop or restaurant. There is a vegan movement here in Japan, especially in Tokyo. So, me copping out is no excuse. For example, at home here in Meguro, I have a totally vegan sandwich. A purple grape sandwich with soy cream on white bread. Or what seems to be white bread. I’m afraid that sandwich will take me over to the edge. And if you are reading my previous posts here on Substack, you know my mental state/health is not exactly the best it can be.
Walking clears my head, and I can’t think of another place on this planet that brings such engaging visuals while on foot. I ran upon a storefront in Harajuku that looks like a design studio. Looking through their window, I can see a model for a car that looks like it is made out of wood. Or is it some plastic material to make it look like wood? A car lunatic can probably identify the make and model of this vehicle if one does actually exist. There are studio spaces here and there, and many designers seem to have offices in Harajuku. And fashion offices as well, many and many are spread out in these side streets.
A casino is also in place, and again, a vast window exposes the inner workings of such a business. In English, the window clarifies that one can’t buy chips with currency, and this is only for play and not real gambling. But one wonders if that is true or not. Gambling can only take place if one is losing or winning real money. But looking at the Casino, I feel it is more contemporary Tokyo than vintage Las Vegas or South of France. It seems like a movie set before the actors and extras get there. There is something theatrical about it all, and like Kabuki, the whole stage is one flat surface. Your eye moves from one object or shape to another, but all images are equal. None stand out and only make sense when you look at it as a composition where all the pieces fit like a puzzle.
Tokyo!